? 發問於 美容及時尚時裝及配件 · 1 十年前

西裝羊毛布料問題

請問全羊毛的西裝布料有何優點?點解有些100%羊毛料無論手感和外觀完全無羊毛感覺?全羊毛料會否較易起毛粒和易皺?混入人造纖維會否更佳?如果是,請問甚麼混毛比例的布料造西裝最好?

3 個解答

評分
  • hl_so
    Lv 6
    1 十年前
    最愛解答

    全羊毛, or wool, is a superior material for suit becase of a few reasons. 1) Wool has insulating effects - keeps you warm but breathes well. 2) Not as susceptible to creasing as compared to cotton or linen. 3) Drapes well.

    However, even if it is 100% wool, there are many different ways of weaving the wool. (This is a very big topic about fabric, you can ask a tailor about it and he will show you the different types of weave.) Different weaving method will give different results and the wool will have different properties. For example, the best woolen fabric for spring/summer in Hong Kong is a fresco weave, where the wool is woven with pores (small openings) so it breathes really well and is very airy. Flannel or worsted wool are much heavier and denser, best of fall/winter. There are at least half a dozen different wools in the market.

    RE: 會否較易起毛粒

    If the wool is woven really badly, yes. Usually, 起毛粒, or pilling, happens when the cloth is woven with very short hair. With friction, these short hair will fuse together into a small cloth ball - 毛粒.

    RE: 易皺

    Depending on the weave. Some crease easily. Usually, the lighter the fabric, the easier it is to crease. The heavier the fabric, the less likely that it will crease. However, creasing has a lot to do with what's INSIDE the suit, not just the fabric. <--- a very big topic on tailoring. This is a question about the internal canvass of the suit, not just the fabric.

    RE: 混入人造纖維

    Not advisable, since synthetic materials do not breathe well. However, this is very subjective.

    RE: 混毛比例的布料

    There are many: wool and cashmere, wool and mink, wool and cotton, wool and silk, etc.. These are all good, depending on the weave.

    If you want to find out more, look at Holland & Sherry's website. This is one of the most famous weavers in the world, and their cloth is very good. It's hard to get in Hong Kong because there is only one distributor for H&S and he marks up a very high price, but most tailor should stock their books, so go to a tailor and ask for Holland and Sherry and take a look at their cloths. http://www.hollandandsherry.com/

    I assume that you are having a suit made at a tailor's. Making a bespoke suit (the proper term for custom-made clothing) is the first step in becoming an elegant gentleman - seldom seen nowadays. Tailoring or bespoke clothing is not just about the clothes, but a life style and a pursuit of perfection. Trust me, if you have found a great tailor and have discovered your style, you will never shop again for ready-made clothes. This is a venture into elegant living, of immense creativity and good taste. Post more questions if you need help, I will try my best to answer them and help you. I have been using tailors, shirt makers, shoe makers, even umbrella makers for quite a few years, and I see this as an art, not just about buying clothes. Hope you will enjoy this as much as I do. Keep it up and distinguish yourself from the rest of the crowd!

  • 10 年前

    The information is very useful.

    Meantime, I would like to know how many types of wool mixes and the types of microns from 16-22.

    Thanks.

  • 1 十年前

    thanks for share

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